The last meal I had at his eponymous gaff in The Berkeley Hotel was as close to flawless as it gets for fayn dayning, albeit delivered in a buzz is almost as tall as it is long. Tables are so close together we can inhale the aroma from next doorâ My lunch guests are a pair of med students on placement at nearby St James's Hospital. I get there before 12.30pm to nab a table and there's already a queue to order; the place is pretty busy. .
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